Wheel Weight Bullets?

What is the bullet speed limitation if I strictly use lead 240gn bullets made out of wheel weights? My research thus far is highlighting that a small concentration of tin (2 -4 percent) will only aid in flow-ability, and not add much to hardness. I have recently ordered a lee 44 cal 430 diameter mold and will be using the wheel weight castings for both a revolver and lever action Marlin. If I develop a charge that keep the speed to 1200 fps or less, will wheel weight bullets suffice? If not, why?
Thank you in advance.

Thanks for the responses. The Marlin is a model 1894. It will apparently shoot mag and SPL (whatever that means).
I don't know if the Marlin has micro groove... I will need to research this. If it does, what problems will it pose?
Also, the revolver I was referring to is an Interarms "Dragoon" 44 mag 7" barrel.
The other question I have is, are wheel weights - once fluxed and impurities remove - considered to be pure lead?
Incidentally, I made some 50 cal R E A L castings out of lead for my Triumph muzzleloader last weekend and I was surprised with clover leaf groupings at 52 yards. I lubed using a relatively fluid - yellow - BP patch lube.
What powder brand would you recommend I use for loading 44 mag?
I am just a beginner and I appreciate all the knowledge I am acquiring through your responses. And again, thank you in advance.

Since the .44 is for the Marlin, I assume it is a Marlin.444.
240gr will work for most uses pretty well. (I use a .429 dia. Flat Round Nose in MY .444.)

You WILL find, however that the bullet weight is based on PURE LEAD, not alloys, and the bullet will weigh slightly less for alloys. (I use Linotype, which is somewhat harder than "wheel weights" having both tin and antimony (10-1-1 mix), and my bullets weigh 225gr.)

As to bullet speed.
Since you are obviously reloading, use the speed, for cast bullets, in your reloading manual, that gives you the best ACCURACY! (MY rifle is, by chronograph, 1800fps at the muzzle.)
That will probably be different for the revolver and the rifle, and you MAY want to "make" 2 different loads, mark them appropriately, and keep them separated. (I do!!)

You will find that the rifle loads and the pistol loads are DIFFERENT in MOST manuals, due to the difference in their uses, (such as barrel lengths!!)

IF your revolver is a .44 mag/special, the alloy is no problem, (maybe a little soft,) BUT if it is a BP revolver, you want to use PURE LEAD for the bullets and/or ball. (I have BOTH!)

Hope this helps.

SPL stands for special. In this case .44 special. This is an "older" cartridge with less power that is capable of being fired in .44 mag. weapons. (The .44 mag is a more powerful version of the same basic cartridge, as the .357 mag is of the .38 special.) Report Abuse

They will work fine at those speeds. Just get a lube that's the right hardness (medium?) for best results. If the Marlin has a Micro-Groove barrel you might have issues but I doubt it.

They'll shoot fine for target etc. but that hard alloy won't expand
much, and might shatter if you hit bone hunting.
Most revolvers 'like' a somewhat softer alloy for best accuracy.